A proper filtration system will remove relatively large particles of debris from a pool and spa, but it can’t do anything about the bacteria and algae spores that will also find their way into the water. Rain, airborne microorganisms, and even swimmers can compromise the quality of the water as well. So as the owner of a pool or spa, you will have to do some things to keep the water crystal clear, clean and pleasant, especially for when you and others want to swim or soak.

Water treatment some times makes people hesitant about owning a pool or spa. True, the science of water and its effective treatment can be intimidating if your high school chemistry class is a distant memory. Fortunately, most of the product you will use are adequately labeled and come with easy-to follow directions. After a few months, you will know what it takes to keep your water pristine. You will also learn how environmental conditions can quickly change your pool’s chemistry.

A heavy rainstorm that adds untreated water to your pool, or a large pool party that puts a heavy demand on
the cleaning system, can render the strictest water treatment schedule useless, making it necessary to adapt to the new condition. You can always consult a local pool dealer, but it’s also a good idea to understand what goes on in the water and how to treat it.

Some terrible things can happen to the water in your pool. It can become cloudy, turn a nasty color, leave stains on the surface of the pool, sting the eyes of swimmers, and even interfere with the workings of pumps and filters. The goal, of course, is to prevent any of that from happening. Pool water should be clean enough
to see clearly a coin thrown into the deep end, and it should feel good on the skin. The only way to achieve those results is to
kill off bacteria with a disinfectant, get rid of organic matter through oxidation – the breaking down of material at the molecular level – and keep the basic elements of the water in balance with one another. In fact, pool and spa water chemistry is really a balancing act. Even though it may not be apparent, a change in one component can affect the entire chemistry of the pool.

Most homeowners use either chlorine or bromine to purify the water in their pools or spas. Chlorine is the best-known sanitizer and for years was the only one available, but in recent years bromine has become increasingly popular. In some areas, bromine has overtaken chlorine as the product of choice.

There is more on maintenance in Chapter 7, but because you are considering having a pool built, it is a good idea to know something about the maintenance routine.

• Removes leaves or other debris from the surface of the pool. It is easier to take care of items on the surface than it is to deal with them once they sink to the bottom.
• Clean skimmer and pump baskets.
• Test and adjust, if necessary, pH levels.
• Test and adjust, if necessary, disinfectant levels.

• Vacuum the pool. You may need to vacuum more often after a heavy rain.
• Clean up any scum that accumulates at the water line.
• Clean or backwash the filter.
• Shock the pool water by giving an extra large dose of chlorine.
• Hose down the pool deck.

Chlorine is popular because it is both an oxidizer and a sanitizer, and it is relatively inexpensive. You can buy chlorine in liquid, tablet, or granular form. (See “The Forms of Chlorine”) Chlorine is also available as a gas, but it is not used in residential pools in this form.

When you add chlorine to the water, it goes to work immediately. To keep the pool clean, a certain amount of chlorine always has to remain in the water to constantly destroy subsequent bacteria and organic material. That means that at any given time there are two types of chlorine present in the pool. The type that is standing by to clean up the water is called free available chlorine (FAC). Then there is the chlorine that has already done its work and has combined with organic matter, called combined available chlorine (CAC), which is actually a compound made up of chlorine and nitrogen or ammonia. Together
FAC and CAC comprise the total available chlorine in a pool or spa.

Think of it this way: FAC is good chlorine; CAC is bad chlorine because it no longer has the ability to sanitize the water. The chlorine odor we associate with crowded public pools is actually from CAC. When you smell chlorine it means that there is not enough good chlorine in the water. At high levels, CAC causes skin irritation and burning eyes. To bring the FAC chlorine levels to where they should be, you need to shock the water by adding about 5 to 10 times the normal application of chlorine to the pool.

Administering Chlorine. You have to mix liquid or granular chlorine with water before pouring it into the pool. Direct contact with the chlorine can bleach a vinyl liner. When handling chlorine, always use a clean container. Chlorine should not be combined with other chemicals. (See “Play It Safe With Chemicals”).

If you use a chlorine tablet, you can place it in a floating erosion feeder, in which the water slowly dissolves the tablets, or in a holder that you can install inside the skimmer, another option is to install a chemical feeder in the pool’s circulation system. The feeder is placed down stream, or after the pump and filter. That means the every time the pump is turned on, the pool is getting a does of chlorine ,which is being distributed throughout the pool more evenly then is possible with hand or simple erosion,
 
A sunny location, right, may keep the water warm, but ultraviolet rays can make chlorine ineffective
A healthy spa, below, requires more chlorine then a pool does, because contaminants are more concentrated. Feeding .it also means that the chlorine is thoroughly diluted by the time it returns to the pump and filter, minimizing the possibility of damage caused by the chemical, if you do not want to handle chlorine
at all, you can install a chlorine generator. These devices pass an electric current through water that turns
salt to chlorine. You refresh the supply of salt in the water by adding it a few times during the swimming season. In most case you simple dump bags of water softener salt in to the pool and move it around to dissolve it, manufacturers offer charts giving the recommended salt levels for pools. The salt you add
isn’t enough to make the water tasty salty.  
    
Maintaining Chlorine’s Efficiency. Most manufacturers recommend keeping chlorine levels at about 1 to
3 parts per million (PPM) for pools and slightly higher levels for spas. (See “Pool and Spa Needs”). Spas require more disinfecting than pools. Think of a spa as a hard used pool. Five people in a 700-gallon spa equal almost 200 people in a 25,000-gallon pool. Add to that the increased water temperature, which promotes algae and bacteria growth but dissipates chlorine, and you can see that spas often require more attention than pools.

Keep in mind that the ultraviolet rays of sunlight and heat can drain chlorine of its punch, making it unstable. Cyanuric acid added to the water helps stabilize the chlorine and increase its useful life. Most chemical manufacturers sell stabilized chlorine tablets, so there is no need for you to handle the acid separately. You should use a chemical feeder when using these types of products.

You would not be able to safely swim in a backyard pool without the use of chemicals or some other disinfecting agent. But don’t kid yourself; pool chemicals can be dangerous if not handled properly. Cal Hypo, for example, many burst into flames when it comes in contact with a some household chemicals. Here are guidelines for pool chemical use from the National Spa and Pool Institute (NSPI).

• Keep all chemicals out of the reach of children.
• Keep records on all pool chemicals. Some products have a shorter shelf life than others.
• Store pool chemicals in a cool, dry place. Keep them away from other household chemicals and equipment, such as items used for gardening and lawn care. This list includes things such as pesticides, solvents, paints, lubricants and fertilizers.
• Follow label directions to the letter. Labels for pool disinfectants have been approved by the U.S. Environment Protection Agency under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act. If you can’t read the label, don’t use
  the product.
• Apply directly to the pool water. Follow directions for distribution through a suitable feeder or other means. This will also help distribute the disinfectants evenly throughout pool.
• Don’t mix pool chemicals. Use clean scoops for each chemical. When combining a chemical with water .pour it slowly and stir. Never pour water onto dry chemicals, as this may create splashing.
• Dispose of wastes in a safe manner. When dealing with a small amount of waste it is usually safe
  to send it through the sewer system flushed with water. To be safe. Contact the local health department for recommendations.
• Take care of your self. Don’t inhale chemical dust or fumes; wear eye protection when handling chemicals. Wash off any residues that get on your skin.

Like chlorine, bromine both disinfects and oxidizes unwanted material in the water. However, unlike chlorine, once bromine combines with organic matter (forming bromamines) it does not produce an offensive smell, nor does it burn the eyes and skin of swimmers. There is no need to shock a bromine pool because the compounds break down naturally. Bromine is also resistant to high water temperatures, making this
chemical a good choice for spas and hot tubs or for heated pools.

On the downside, bromine is more expensive than chlorine. It also dissipates quickly in sunlight and cannot be stabilized the way that chlorine can, although you can add chlorine to help stabilize bromine. In fact, some bromine tablets can contain up to 30 percent chlorine. While a good choice for the confined area and high water temperatures of a spa, bromine is also an option for some large pools, particularly indoor pools shielded from the sun.

You’ve heard of the ozone layer above the earth. But what you might not know is that the fresh, clean smell in the air after an electrical storm is actually ozone produced by the electrical currents in the storm. Ozone is a gas that oxidizes wastes. It is made up of three molecules of oxygen that are bound together. In that form it
can kill harmful elements without producing any nasty by products.

At poolside, a device called an ozonator draws air into a chamber and passes it in front of an ultraviolet light. The light changes the oxygen in the air into ozone. The gas then enters the pool water where it goes to work. As with chemical feeders, ozone gets into the pool water via the circulation system after the pump and filter.

An ozonator will reduce the need for chemical treatments. However, you will still have to periodically shock
the pool water with chemicals.

There is also a class of products that was created for pool and spa owners who want an alternative to chlorine. Biguanide (short for polyhexamethylene biguanide or PHMB) is the word most often used for these products, which are polymer solutions that disinfect pool water. Biguanide-based products are completely incompatible with chlorine or bromine.

Finally, you can also use ultraviolet (UV) light to kill bacteria. In pools, a chamber located after the pump and filter zaps the water as it passes on its way back into the pool. The problem is there is no residual method for preventing bacteria. You will still need to use some chemical disinfectant in addition to UV light.

Many things can affect the efficacy of a disinfectant. Here’s a list of likely factors.

• Bathing Load. The more people who use the pool the more disinfectant you will need. You will notice an increase in demand after large pool parties.
• Sunlight. This weakens chlorine.
• High water Temperature. Temperature over 85 degrees shorten the life of many pool chemicals.
• Wind and Rain. These elements carry unwanted material into the pool.
• pH balance. High pH levels slow down the disinfectant action of many chemicals.
• Total Alkalinity. Low TA makes it difficult to adjust pH.

In addition to sanitizing your pool and spa water, you must also keep it balanced, which is similar to keeping it tuned up. Pool and spa water that is balanced won’t sting or burn the eyes and skin of swimmers and soakers. It also won’t harm pool equipment or pool liners. In addition, balanced water helps sanitizers less effective, which means that you will need to add more chemicals. The elements you will have to take into account for maintaining balanced water are pH level, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and total dissolved solids. It sounds more complicated than it is, but with proper testing and monitoring and by adding the right amendments when necessary, it isn’t difficult to keep the water in balance.

The pH scale is a logarithmic measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, or the concentration of hydrogen or hydroxide ions, respectively. (The p is a symbol that indicates a logarithm of whatever follows it; in the case of pH, hydrogen ions). If you have ever done any gardening, you know that experts recommend that you test the pH level of your soil before planting. The same types of measurements are available for the water in your pool. The results of these measurements are plotted on a scale that runs from 0 to 14. Water that measures in the center of the scale, around 7, is considered neutral. Anything below 7 is acidic – lemon juice or vinegar would be around 3. Anything above 7 is considered alkaline – the pulverized limestone you spread on your lawn to make the soil less acidic has a high pH, for example.

Water with levels slightly below 7 will sting the eyes of swimmers. Go lower on the scale, and the acid in the water will begin to eat away at tile grout, vinyl liners, plaster surfaces, and circulation equipment. At high pH levels the minerals in the water will begin to shake out of solution, meaning that they will form scale on the pool’s surface and in pipes and other equipments. Obviously, you want to avoid both situations by keeping
the water’s pH around 7. Actually, it’s best to keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.8. At the level, the water is safe for swimmers and it helps sanitizers work at peak efficiency.

Pool owners should test pH levels daily or at least a few times per week. Adding soda ash to the water raises pH; adding soda ash to the water raises pH; adding an acid such as muriatic acid lowers it. As a pool owner you will be buying products that tell you what they are used for night on the label. Manufacturers package pH adjusting products under names that basically say “this product raises pH”, or “this product lowers pH;” such as pH Increaser or pH Reducer.

Total alkalinity (TA) is a measurement of the alkaline compounds in the water, and it has a direct bearing on pH levels. Think of a pH reading as a general statement that says one of three things: the water is fine; it is
too acidic; or it is too alkaline. A TA measurement will tell you the exact amount of alkaline compounds that
are in the water and whether to increase or lower them to get the water back into balance. If the water is too alkaline or isn’t alkaline enough, it becomes difficult to adjust the pH so that it remains stable. Your measurements will vary widely from day to day, creating what pool experts call the pH bounce. For that
reason, it is important to adjust TA before trying to correct pH levels.

Keep the TA between 80 and 125 parts per million (ppm) in gunite pools with unpainted finishes and 125 to 150 ppm for vinyl, fiberglass, and painted finishes. Maintaining these TA levels will stabilize pH. Sodium bicarbonate raises TA; muriatic acid lowers TA. Again, you will be buying products designed for TA adjustment.

You are probably familiar with the terms hard and soft water. They refer to the amount of dissolved minerals
in water of which calcium is one. While you may want to get rid of some of the calcium in the water that you use inside of your house, pools and spas actually benefit from what many people would consider hard water. If the water is too soft, it will become corrosive to pool surfaces and equipment. If calcium is present in extremely high levels, it can form scale on pool or spa surfaces, especially at the water line. Experts recommend keeping calcium hardness between 200 and 300 ppm, although it is not unusual to see recommendations from pool product manufacturers for higher levels. You can increase calcium hardness by adding calcium chloride or a proprietary product designed to increase calcium hardness. The only way to lower calcium hardness is to drain water from the pool and replace it with fresh water.

The pros call it Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), and it stands for just about everything you put into the water, including chemicals, minerals, suntan lotion, and the like. All of those solids are normally dissolved in the water. But water can hold only a limited amount of material. At a certain point, TDS build up to where they become apparent, usually in the form of cloudy or murky water. You may be doing everything right but the
water still looks a bit off. Evaporation plays a large part in the build up of TDS. When TDS testing reveals
levels above 2,500 ppm, even if the water still looks clear, it is time to drain and refill the pool. High levels
of TDS make sanitation chemicals less effective.

Be prepared to deal with other items that end up in your pool or spa. Some relatively harmless objects, such as leaves and grass clippings, are more of a nuisance than anything else. However, ignore them and they may become a serious problem, so be sure to remove this natural debris daily. (See Chapter 7, “Pool Keeping – Routine Maintenance and Care”).

Algae are another problem, especially in plaster pools. The world algae (plural for alga) refer to thousands
to varieties of one-cell plants. The plaster surface in gunite pools gives these plants something to grab.
The kinds of algae that turn up in pools are commonly known as green algae (chlorophyta), brown algae (phaeophyta), which may look yellow and blue green algae (cyanophyta), which often appears black.

Many pool experts say the best way to prevent algae formation is with proper sanitation and cleaning.

That is true. But even the cleanest pool may sometimes develop an algae problem if conditions are right. Algae spores could be in the water you use to fill the pool, or they could be carried on the wind and fall into
the water. Algae also need sunlight, warmth, and nutrients for food. Algae tend to be found on pool steps or in shallow water because these areas heat up faster than deeper water they get their nutrients from the minerals in the water.

Remove algae with a combination of elbow grease and chemical treatment. Some types will brush away easily but others, such as black algae, are much more difficult to remove. There are a number of algaecides on the market to help you complete the job. (See “Resource Guide”).

Occasionally, pool owners discover types of algae cot usually found in their area. These new algae often hitch a ride on a bathing suit. Usually, the unsuspecting swimmer just returned from a trip. He or she went for a swim, then line-dried the bathing suit. The result: free air transportation for the algae. Avoid this problem by washing the suit in detergent and drying
it in a dryer. – D.S.

Routine Maintenance and Care

The building crews are gone, the yard is clean, and the water level in the pool is rising steadily. Time to go for a swim, right?  Not so fast. The pool isn’t quite ready yet. Good every day drinking water needs a few adjustments to become good swimming water. Basically, your pool will require a break-in period because tap water may contain a variety of minerals and algae, which can alter the color of the water. In addition, the pool itself will be dirty from the construction process. Once you fill it, all of that dirt and grime will be in the water.

During the break-in period, the filtration system will have to run continuously for 24 hours a day for a several days. While this is happening, keep an eye on the filter’s pressure gauge. When it rises by about 10 pounds per square inch (psi) over its normal operating pressure, shut down the system and either backwash or clean the filter. (For information, refer to Filter Maintenance in chapter 3, “Pool Gear – Pool and Spa Equipment”). Consult your pool dealer or builder about specific recommendations for breaking in your pool because the procedure will vary by pool material and geographic location. If you plan to hire a pool service to take care of regular maintenance, now is the time to do it. Experienced help will make the break-in process go smoothly, and pool professionals will be able to answer any of your questions.

Gunite pools with plaster finishes present a challenge. If you have a new gunite pool, it may take as much as five days to get the water just right for swimming. Remember that the filling process started while the plaster was still wet. If it didn’t, the brittle plaster would crack when hit by the water. Filling the pool while the plaster is wet means that a lot of plaster dust is suspended in the water, and it is going to take a few days to get rid of it. As soon as a gunite pool is filled, you have to turn on the filtration equipment and run it for 24 hours a day –cleaning the filters as necessary. Don’t turn on the heater for up to three weeks and,
of course, do not let anyone swim in the pool until the break-in period is over. After a few days, begin testing the water. Add chemicals to balance the pH, but do not add any sanitizer yet. Brush the sides of the pool, and vacuum it every day. Push all of the debris toward the main drain.

After about three or four days, add sanitizer. Test the water daily. Continue the procedure until the water is crystal clear and your testing has all of the components covered in Chapter 5, “Sparkling Water – Pool Chemistry Made Easy”, within acceptable limits.

Routine Pool Maintenance

Owning a pool requires attention on your part to keep the water clean and safe, of course, but you should also plan on performing some minor maintenance procedures to keep the equipment running at peak efficiency.Every pool is different, and the requirements to keep the water clean differ for each one. The longer you own and use your pool, the more you will come to know what it needs. What follows is an outline for a maintenance schedule. It is a good place to start, but you may find the necessity to fine-tune it for your own pool. It is also important to realize that an established maintenance routine for a pool or spa only works when conditions are normal are normal. A large pool party, using the spa more often than
is usual, and even a heavy rain storm can change the dynamics of the water chemistry. When these conditions occur, you may need to perform some extra maintenance to make the water clean again.

Daily Maintenance

Plan on performing some maintenance activity just about every time you use the pool. If you don’t use the pool every day, try to do some things every few days. For example, pick up a long-handled skimmer net and remove leaves or any other debris that ends up floating on the surface of the pool. Do this simple task and you will save yourself or your pool service a great deal of work later. Anything that floats on the surface of the pool will sink eventually. Once debris makes it to the bottom of the pool, it
is more difficult to remove.

While walking around the pool, scooping up leaves and grass clippings, check the pool’s skimmer basket.
If there is debris floating in the surface of the pool, there is also a good chance that some of that stuff has already been trapped in the skimmer basket as necessary.

This is also a good time to check the water level in the pool. Evaporation accounts for much lost water over
the course of a swimming season. That, combined with water loss from splashing and the normal motions
of swimmers exiting the pool, draws down the water level. Make sure that the water level is adequate for the skimmers to operate properly. If the water level falls below the skimmer level, the pump could be damaged.

Water Testing

Test the water on a regular basis. There are a number of test kits available, but most homeowner kits fall into one of two categories: test-strip and reagent kits.

Test strips contain dyes that change color when you immerse them in water. The testing kit’s directions will tell you how long to hold the strip under water – typically just a few seconds. Compare the wet strip to a color chart that is part of the kit. The color tells you what your pool needs with regard to sanitizer, pH, and alkalinity.Reagent kits consist of liquids or tablets that you add to a sample of water from the pool. Again, the effect the reagent has on the sample in terms of color will give you a reading of the chemical balance of the water. There are two types of reagent kits: colorimetric kits and titration kits. Both are color-based tests. They differ from one another in that the titration test requires that you add an indicator reagent and then a follow-up reagent, which you usually add one drop at a time. The titration kit is the most accurate test kit.

The important thing to remember about using any test kit is to follow the instructions to the letter. Store the material properly, and never mix components of one manufacturer’s kit with those of another company. For more information, see “Tips on Testing”.

Tips on Testing

• Always use fresh reagents or test strips.
• Rinse testing materials with the water that you are about to test. Never use soap or trap water to
  clean the equipment before testing, as they can leave a residue that will interfere with the test.
• Run the circulation system for about 15 or 20 minutes before testing.
• Do not take samples from the area around the return outlets or from dead zones in the pool.
• Take samples from water that is at least 18 inches below the surface.
• Handle all chemicals and dyes carefully. Never pour them into the pool.
• Store testing materials in dry, dark places. Direct sunlight can harm the testing agents.

Smart Tip

If you do need to add chemicals, wait to see whether the chemicals have the desired effect. Wait about 15 minutes for liquid chlorine to circulate (with the pump running) and about 12 hours for the pH to adjust.

Adding Chemicals

Most manufacturers print specific instructions for handling pool chemicals. In general, the goal is to get the chemicals circulating throughout the pool without getting any on yourself or areas around the pool. Again,
refer to Chapter 5 for the types of chemicals you will be using.

Granular Products. Whether they are sanitizers, acids, or alkaline materials, granular products should be added directly to the pool and never put into the skimmer for circulation. Most granular products are concentrated, so avoid direct contract. The best way to do this is to mix the required amount with water in a clean bucket used only for that purpose. Slowly pour the mixture at various locations around the pool. Be sure to hold the bucket close to the water so that none splashes on you. Pour around the return inlets (making sure that the circulation system is running). It is also a good idea to add some of the solution to any dead zones, which are areas where the water circulation isn’t active as it is in other areas. Possible dead zones include areas around steps, corners, and alcoves.

You can pour granular sanitizes directly into the water. The problem is that they often take time to dissolve,
so for a time they will be sitting on the bottom of the pool. This could lead to bleaching of some color surfaces.
Liquids. Pour liquid products directly into the pool. Again, hold the container as close as possible to the surface as the water to avoid splashing. Add sanitizers to a variety of spots around the pool, but avoid pouring directly into skimmers.

Tablets. Many homeowners find that 1- to 3- inch tablets are a convenient way to sanitize their pools. Placed in a floating dispenser, the tablets dissolve to add fresh chlorine to the water over a period of time. Be sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Some tablets are so concentrated that the larger versions are not recommended for smaller pools.

There is also a question of safety when using tablets placed in a floater. These are not toys, but they are sure to attract kids – especially a neighbor’s child who may not realize that the floater contains chlorine. If small children will be using the pool, it is best to avoid using floaters containing chlorine.

If you do use them, try to keep the floater from being drawn to the skimmer. As with other chemicals it is best not to add chlorine directly to the skimmer. Tie off a floater to keep it away from the skimmers.

Weekly Maintenance

If you attend to a maintenance routine that is daily or every few days, you will find that the larger tasks that should be performed weekly will go more quickly. If you contract with a pool-cleaning service, in addition to testing and correcting the water chemistry, the company should also perform other important tasks.

Vacuuming. There are two types of pool vacuums. One model attaches to the skimmer and works with the pool’s circulation system to remove dirt from the bottom of the pool. Anything collected by this vacuum is trapped by the pool’s filter. With the other type, water from a garden hose forces the dirt into a collection bag. You remove the bag and the dirt with it. (for more information, see “Automatic Pool Cleaners”, in chapter 4, “Enhancing the Experience – Accessories and Fun Stuff).

If you’re vacuuming to the filter, be sure that all of the suction in the circulation system is concentrated at the skimmer you are using. If you are recall the basic plumbing set up for a typical pool, you’ll remember that the circulation system pulls water through the man floor drain and the skimmer on the side of the pool. Usually the suction created by the pump is about equal for both. But if you are vacuuming, divert all of the pump’s pull to the skimmer. That may mean shutting down the main drain and opening up the skimmer valve completely.

Brushing. Use a special tile brush available at pool supply outlets to clean off the tile above the waterline. It may cot be necessary to do this every week, but plan on doing it at least every two weeks (obviously, more often if necessary). Cleaning of the tile helps remove dirt and, more importantly, algae before it can take hold.
Plan on scrubbing the tiles with the tile brush and tile soap (don’t use household detergent) about once a month during the swimming season. This is a good way to keep ahead of any algae buildup and it also helps remove scale. When you’re scrubbing, reach down to clean just below the waterline because evaporation will force the waterline lower.

Use the above procedure on vinyl and fiberglass pools. Check with the manufacturers but in most cases you can use the tile cleaner you buy at swimming pool supply houses. Never use abrasive cleaners, steel wool,
or metal scrapers on these surfaces. They can tear vinyl liners and damage the gel coat finish on fiberglass pools.

In addition, check on the equipment at least once a week. See “Equipment Maintenance”.

Shocking, or Superchlorinating

As discussed in Chapter 5, it is necessary to shock the water by periodically adding massive amounts of chlorine. Shocking the water, or superchlorination, deals with the organic contaminants that build up in the pool over time. The contaminants combine with chlorine to form chloramines. It is the chloramines that produce the chlorine smell some people associate with pools. To get rid of the smell you must perform the seemingly contradictory task of adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine. You need to “shock” the water back to normal levels of good chlorine.

So how often is shocking necessary? Well, it depends on whom you ask. Most chemical manufacturers suggest a weekly shock treatment. That may be just the prescription for your pool, but in reality not all pools need a superchlorination treatment on a weekly basis. Pools need a shock treatment when there are large amounts of organic matter such as ammonia and nitrogen in the water. The more often a pool is used and
the heavier the swimmer loads, the more often shock treatments are necessary.

Follow manufacturer’s directions. Add chemicals to various spots around the pool. In most cases, you should keep swimmers out of the pool until the chlorine levels return to normal. Some products suggest adding shock treatments at night so that the pool water can stabilize overnight.

Smart Tip

The actual vacuuming, no matter which type of equipment you use, is fairly straightforward. Slowly work your way around the pool, down the walls, and along the floor. Move at a slow, steady pace. If you move too quickly, the current created by the vacuum head will stir up any dirt on the bottom.

Spa Maintenance

Spas require a maintenance routine that is similar to that of pools. But if the water in the spa or the spa shell itself is extremely dirty, it may make more sense to empty the spa and start over than to try to correct the problem. Shut down the system at the circuit breaker, and drain the spa. A simple submersible pump does
a fine job of this.

Once the spa is empty, run fresh water through the circulation system to purge it of any dirt. Clean the filter (referring to “Maintaining the Filter”), and thoroughly wipe down the spa’s cover. Use a cleaner on the shell that is recommended by the spa manufacturer. After you apply and wipe off the cleanser, rinse off the shell again. These cleaning products will undoubtedly be nonabrasive cleansers that won’t foam up once the spa is filled again. However, it’s still a good idea to rinse off as much of the residue as possible.

When adding chemicals to the spa, administer them a little at a time. Remember that you are dealing with only a fraction of the volume of water found in even a small pool. Go easy on the dosages. You can always
test and add more chemicals later if needed.

Solving Pool and Spa Water Problems

Equipment Maintenance

The equipment that is part of the circulation system – pumps, filters, heaters, and chlorinators – also require regular maintenance during the swimming season. Each manufacturer will provide maintenance instructions, but there are a few easy things that you can do to keep the equipment running at peak efficiency.

Maintaining the pump

Check and clean the strainer basket attached to the pump about once a week. This simple task will go a long way in keeping the entire circulation system in tip-top shape. To clean it, remove the top to get at the basket. While you have the top off, check the condition of the O-ring or gasket in the lid. If it is brittle or cracked, you won’t be able to form the seal necessary to keep the pump operating.

If your pump is leaking, it is probably the seal that needs to be replaced. The pump consists of a motor that turns a shaft, which in turn spins the impeller that creates the pumping action. At a certain point along the shaft is a seal that keeps the water flowing through the pump from coming in contact with the motor. The seal is made of rubber set in a ceramic disk. The rubber stops leaks, and the ceramic with stands the high temperatures created by the turning shaft. To get at the seal you have to take the pump apart. This is a job that is best left to a professional.

Pump leaks
Pump works, but the water flow is low
Pump is noisy
Motor is running, but the pump does not work

Cause/Solution

Broken seals. Replace the O-ring or gasket on the strainer pot, or replace the seal between the impeller and motor.

Clogs may be preventing water flow. Check and clean the skimmers and strainer basket, or clear any obstructions in the piping system. Filter mat be dirty. Clean as necessary. Pump improperly sized for the system. It may be necessary to install a larger pump.

There may be something stuck in the line. Check and clear.
The bearings in the motor may be ready to fail. Call the pool service company.

Impeller may be jammed. Check and clear.