WHY NEED SWIMMING POOL OR SPA?
Water is the 5th element for animal or plants.
Size of Pool You needed:
Its depend upon the size of space available with you Arrdev have small pool form 100 sq. ft. to the 10000 sq ft. Olympic swimming pool. The basement is to be observed as the two kind of pool proposal.
- If the entry is big go for readymade swimming pool.
- But if the entry is no big enough then the prefabricated pool will be preferable.
- Throw the dimensions of your back yard into the equation, and you should be able to come up with a rough plan that gives an idea of the size and shape of pool and spa that is right for you, as well as some idea about where to put them on your yard.
- There is a lot more to think about, including your budget, but start slowly. Before you begin working on the details, think of the big picture.
- Start the planning process by thinking about the things you and your family enjoys the most. Here are some ideas.
- Do not go with cheapest pool as they may not last long also never believe high price is guarantee of good quality.
This is probably the most popular type of pool. It’s where you and your family and friends hang out and have some good wet fun. If spending an afternoon splashing around on a float is your idea of a swim, perhaps an aboveground pool might be for you. Or you can opt for an in-ground pool that has a constant depth – let’s say about 3.5 feet. Both are good choices, especially if small children will be using the pool. The depth accommodates most pool games and is still deep enough to swim for exercise.
Arrdev swim spa is perfectly suit for this kind of activity.
A large pool with a deep and an attached in-ground spa offers something for everyone. In commercial pools these are the attracting Arrdev prefabricated pools are good enough with kids and main swimming pool with same structure. (Unique concept of swimming pool ).
If you decide to add a diving board, the pool will need a deep end. Recommendations vary but plan on a depth of about 9 to 11 feet in the diving area, which should extend out a minimum of approximately 12 feet in front if the diving board.
Other amenities to consider for a recreation center include slides and a nearby spa.
Lap pools are for those who want to exercise regularly by swimming. While a 4-foot depth is adequate, lap swimmers need space. An Olympic size pool is 25 meters long – that’s a little over 82 feet in length. Most yards don’t have that kind of space, but if you can squeeze a pool that is about 45 feet long into your yard, you will be able to do some serious training.
For those who don’t want to swim laps but do plan on doing water aerobics, size isn’t important. As long as the pool is about 4 feet deep, you will get a good workout.
Of course, nothing says you can’t have a pool that lets you do both: float away a hot afternoon, and train for the next Olympics. As you will see later, many pools come in a variety of shapes and sizes. If you have the space in your yard, it is possible to combine the long narrow shape of the typical lap pool with a large constant- depth area for pool games.
Hydrotherapy pools are like that only.
A swim spa. Another choice for exercise buffs is a swim spa. This is a small pool – some models are only 12 to 20 feet long that produces a strong artificial current against which you can swim without moving forward. This action is sometimes called “treadmill swimming.” Both lap pools and swim spas are great choices for indoor exercise areas.
Arrdev pools have both kind of endless pool machine.
- Propeller counter current swimming pool machine with 3 hp motor with 0-100 speed controls.
- Jet based counter current swimming is with v shape counter jet in 3-6 no’s.
Besides providing an exercise area, a swim spa is a compact alternative to a full-size in-ground pool. It will work well in a narrow yard, and unlike a full-size lap pool, it doesn’t require an open stretch of ground.
An indoor gym, above right, benefits from an accessible lap pool, especially in a private location.
The stretch bend and side bars provide aerobic and power gym solution in Arrdev made swimming pools.
A swim spa, right, provides a current against which to swim for people who want a healthy workout.
A Relaxation Center
A good soak in a swimming pool can certainly relax you. But to relieve the tensions of the day or pamper sore muscles, nothing beats a session in a spa or hot tub. Many people who build a pool include either an in-ground or portable spa as part of the package. As with pools, there is a lot of choose from here. In-ground versions complement the design of the larger pool. Usually, they are built right next to the pool where they share pumps, filters, and heaters. Portable spas give you the option of placing the spa in some other part of the yard, such as on an existing deck or patio, where it is easier to reach from the house. Portable spas are self-contained units with pumps, filters, a heater, and sometimes lighting built right into the unit
Jacuzzi jet in swimming pool or swim spa provide best of both world you do not need a water filled sitting container but in pool the movement is there.
Give the idea of the pool with a deep end serious thought. In my experience, most homeowners don’t need deep pools. These models are more expensive to build and maintain, and there are obvious safety factors to consider.
A portable spa, above, comes with numerous jets to massage and relax muscles.
An overflow spill tub, below, offers a deeper soak – as much as 3ft. – than other types of spas.
Safety: always check safety of pool surface as the pool with plain floor are prone to accidents.
Create a Plan
If you’ve thought about installing a pool or spa, you probably have a general idea about where to place it in your yard. A pool of spa is going to be the focus of an outdoor living area, so it should be in a convenient spot. Like a deck or patio, it should have a connection to the house. You will gravitate to the area more readily if you can reach the new pool through a public room such as family room or kitchen. Also, it is usually easier to keep an eye on what is going on in the pool from these frequented parts of the house. Little – used areas, such as bedroom in the middle of the day, do not make good entry points of the pool area, but might be ideal for gaining access to a private, enclosed spa or hot tub.
Having a general idea of where to locate your pool or spa is a good start, but there are a number of other considerations to keep in mind. The best way to approach this stage of the planning is to draw a plot plan of your property on graph paper. This will give you a scaled-down overhead view that should show the location of all of the existing elements, such as the house, driveway, lawns, gardens, trees, decks and any other outdoor structures. If you’ll be adding other features, the plan will also help you to allot the proper space and location for them on your site.
If you plan to do landscaping simultaneously with pool construction, you might want to include these plans as well, perhaps on a separate copy or on a tissue paper overlay with the pool and spa in place. At the very least, you will have begun the process of determining your future plans for the area surrounding the pool or spa. A pool attracts a crowd, so it’s wise to locate it where access to the house is easy.
A complaint I hear from homeowners is that they wish they had put the pool closer to the house. A pool that is close makes entertaining and bringing food and drinks from the house – and cleaning up after a party – much easier.
An alternative is to create a base map from a copy of your plot (or property survey) prepared by surveyors, which most homeowners receive when they purchase their house. You can also request one from your tax assessor’s office. Copies are usually available at no cost or for a nominal fee. A surveyor’s map save you time taking measurements. In addition to showing property lines, a footprint on the house, and other significant structures, the plat should show easements and the location of overhead and underground utility lines. Make enlarged copies of the plat so that you can draw on them, or use one copy as a base and add tissue layers to draw in the other components.
A dramatic vanishing-edge, or infinity-edge, pool is designed to blend into the magnificent view beyond.
Items to Include in a Plan
Several features will work together to give you a clear picture of your site and help you to determine the best location of your pool or spa. It’s important to include all if them in your plan.
Existing Structures. In addition to the house and garage, indicate tool sheds, decks, patios, and any existing fences. Make note of all paved surfaces such as driveways and walkways.
Trees and Shrubs. Draw in all of the shrubs and trees on your property. It is important to keep the location of trees and shrubs in mind when placing your pool. They can provide shade or act as a windbreak if it’s needed. Avoid placing pools and spas under trees so that you are not continually scooping out leaves from the water. Even the needles from conifers can become a maintenance problem. Existing trees and shrubs can be relocated or removed, but that will increase the cost of your project.
This naturalistic design, left, integrates stone, trees, and a man-made water fall into the pool scope
At a proper distance, a cluster of trees, below, provides privacy without blocking sunlight from the water.
Buried Utilities. Mark underground gas, sewer, water, and electric lines after consulting with your utility companies and local building department for the exact locations. Don’t forget to indicate septic tanks and leech fields on you plan as well. Also, make note of any overhead power lines that cross your property. It is illegal to build a pool under power lines.
Soil conditions. Soil type is a factor to consider before selecting a site for a pool. Soil that is too sandy will be difficult to excavate because it won’t hold a shape; too much clay tends to expand when it gets wet. Don’t worry if you can’t tell whether the soil is sandy or contains a lot of clay; the pool builder can make that judgment. But it will help if he can get information from you that’s only available through long-term observation, such as if there are areas in the ward where water tends to pond after a rain shower.
Sitting a pool takes into account several factors, including soil quality and the slope of the land.
Slope of the land. The slope of the landscape must also be taken into consideration. In general, surface water should drain away from the pool. You should avoid situations where surface runoff flows into the pool. If you have a flat yard or even one where small amounts of water puddle, you can bring in topsoil to create a gentle slope away from the pool. The contractor may also suggest a drainage system for the area around the pool. A subsurface drainage system may also be necessary if naturally occurring ground water keeps the soil wet. The system, which is usually perforated drainage pipe buried in gravel, may be able to divert water away from the pool area.
Sun and Wind patterns. You will get a lot more enjoyment from your pool if you pay attention to how the Sun and Wind affect your site. Keep in mind that in the northern hemisphere, the sun’s arc during the day follows a southerly course. In summer, the sun seems to be high overhead. In winter, the sun tracks lower in the sky. The sun is usually at its hottest in the left afternoon when it is sinking in the west. If your pool or spa is open to these directions, it will receive the maximum warmth from the sun.
Whether or not that is a good thing depends on where you live. In hot climates, the afternoon such can be unbearable. By the same logic, a pool or spa always in the shade in the north could be just as unpleasant much of the time. The goal is to consider the prevailing local conditions when choosing a site for your pool. If the spot you had in mind doesn’t get much sun and you live in Minnesota, you may want to find another location – perhaps one where most of the pool would be exposed to the sun in the late afternoon. Or, if possible, you may want to consider removing whatever is causing the shade.
A strong wind or even a stiff breeze blowing across the surface of the pool can make swimming uncomfortable. The same is true for the location of a spa. Fortunately, you can divert the wind with clumps of plantings, fences or even the placement of a small enclosed structure, such as an equipment shed or changing cabana.
A wall of hedges and other dense plantings offers privacy and serves as a windbreak.
A solid fence, located to block the wind, can keep the water and swimmers warm while providing security and privacy around the pool area.
An open fence that allows a moderate amount of breeze to enter the area is a good idea if the pool is located in a spot that receives long hours of hot sun.
Adding the Pool or Spa to Your Plan
Once you have a plan of your yard and all of its important elements, you can begin experimenting with locations for the pool. Don’t be too worried about getting everything perfect at this stage. Your pool builder will have suggestions about where to locate the pool, too. But this exercise will help you get started on the overall design of your yard of the pool or spa in it.
Try to be as accurate as possible when drawing the plan. That means you will probably need to take some measurements. Rather than drawing straight lines, you can use a series of ovals and circles to show the relative size of components and their relationship to other things in the yard. No one would be able to actually build from such a plan, but these sketches can be starting point. Once you have the plan on paper you can pencil the location of pool or spa.
There are also home design software products on the market that you can use. The software is fairly expensive and lets you place standard objects such as trees and decks with a touch of a button. You can also move things around easier on the computer than if you are working by hand.
Computer software lets you easily create and alter a number of plans quickly once you become familiar with the software. However, you prefer the traditional method of paper and pencil, use tracing paper to sketch out the pool or spa, and anything else, such as a deck or patio that will be added around it.
While it is okay to daydream about long, lazy afternoons in your new pool or spa, you can’t ignore the practical realities of everyday life. Adding a pool or spa to your yard will change the way you use your outdoor living area. Plan for these changes now, before work actually begins. Here are some things to think about.
Privacy. This is often a concern of pool and spa owners. On most suburban building lots the backyard isn’t visible from the street. But if that isn’t the case, pay particular attention to where you need to shield the view and how you can add privacy. Items to consider include plantings of tall shrubs and trees or fencing.
And don’t forget your neighbor’s privacy and comfort. Placing a pool, spa or its equipment too close to the property line may not be the best interests of friendship and peaceful coexistence.
Access to Electric and Water Services. You will need both of these for the finished pool or spa and while the work is underway. You may have to upgrade electrical service to accommodate the various pumps, filters and other accessories that are part of a new pool or spa. At the very least, plan on an electrician running dedicated circuits to the pool area. In some cases, he can run the circuit from the existing electric panel. But if the panel is full or nearly full, which means all of the possible circuit locations are already occupied, you may need a boost in service. That means that an electrician, working with your utility company, will add circuits to bring more power into your home. Also, be aware that electric lines must not cross over the pool. Discuss your option with your pool dealer and an electrician.
You will need water to feel your pool, but you will also need water to maintain it. A garden hose that reaches your pool is adequate in most cases. For large in – ground pools, builders can add an automatic fill line that attaches to your existing water supply pipes.
Water is also necessary to clean and maintain pumps and filters. Many people overlook this requirement and end up snaking garden hoses across the yard to clean a filter. If your equipment will be located away from the house, have a waterline installed during pool construction to make maintenance easier.
Access for Building Equipment. In ground pools, in particular, require the use of heavy equipment. Backhoes, trucks and other heavy equipment all require access into your yard. That means a clearance that’s about 10 feet wide. You should also plan access for the removal or secondary use of any dirt, rocks or debris that is the result of the construction.
Codes may limit water use and may require that you use a specific type of filter.
Building Permits and Building Codes
Arrdev readymade swimming pool do not need any permission in India as these are movable structure and can be shifted as required.
In most cases the permanent structure are considered in building map.
However we always suggest the owner with local authorities.
Your town may require you to apply for a building permit before starting construction on your pool. If you are doing the work yourself, call the building department to find out whether a permit is necessary. If a pool or spa company is handling the job, make sure that the contract states that the builder is responsible for securing all of the necessary permits.
Although procedure may vary from town to town, applying for a permit sets in motion a number of events. First, the building department will review your plans. Later the building inspector may also want to visit the site to make sure that the project complies with zoning laws.
Building codes are complex documents that state minimum construction requirements for people’s safety. They can vary from town to town. Some communities have code requirements for pools and spas, and many address some of the things that may go along with a new one, such as safety fences, decks, patios and electrical work.
A reputable pool company should be familiar with the requirements in your area. But as the homeowner you are responsible for the project. At the very least, discuss the need for permits and code requirements with the contractor before signing the contract. If you are not satisfied, look for another contractor.
Review Local Zoning Laws
Municipalities create zoning laws to control how land is used in a given area. In the broadest sense, they separate residential from industrial and commercial areas. This distinction also means that company X can’t build asphalt plant on your block. But local zoning laws can also affect how you use your own property. Some things to check on while still in the planning stage for your pool or spa include height restrictions for fences and require setbacks (or the distance between your property line and the structures you want to build).
If your plans don’t comply with local regulations, either make the necessary changes or apply for a zoning variance. Zoning laws are written in very general terms that are open to interpretation for specific projects. The zoning board or commissioner will decide whether to issue the variance or reject the appeal. Ask about your local variance procedure at the building or planning department. Basically, you will need to prove to a zoning board that your plans will not harm your neighbors or encroach on their privacy. The variance process can take time, so it’s best to learn the zoning regulations early. A relaxing in-ground spa is especially enjoyable after an aerobic swim in a lap pool.
Now or Add Later?
Building a pool or spa is a lot like building or renovating a house. You can build or add everything at once, or you can take care of the main area now and add on later.
Here are the items you should including during construction or installation. Some are absolutely necessary, while others are optional or just easier to install at this stage.
- Diving boards (optional)
- Slides (optional)
- Fill lines (optional)
- Safety items (life bouy)
- Lights (optional)
- Sound system (optional)
- Maintenance equipment and/or maintenance contract
Here are some elements you can add to your pool or spa later:
- Automatic cleaners
- Decks and patios
- Automatic controls
- Time clocks
- Shade structures
- Chemical feeders
Hiring a Pool Builder
Back at the beginning of this chapter you learned that you should think of your new pool as a major remodeling project. Finding a good pool company is much the same as hiring a contractor to an addition to your home or redo your kitchen. The goal here is to find and get bids from at least three companies that you think would a good job.
You can rely on Arrdevpools for best product in best prices.
- DIVING IN
- There are two ways two choose your new pool or spa. The first is to learn as much as you can about the options available and then weigh them against the needs and wishes of you and your family. The second option is to simply pick a pool builder and let him decide. Most pool installers specialize in building one or, at the most, two types of pools. In essence, once you’ve selected a contractor, you’ve picked the type of pool that will be installed in your yard.
The first option seems best. Not only will you end up with the pool or spa that most closely meets your requirements, but you will also have a thorough understanding of the subject matter and what to expect of the project. When the time comes to hire a contractor, you will know what questions to ask, and you will be a better position to judge quality.
An educated consumer is much more likely to get a good pool at a fair price than a homeowner who relies totally on the contractor to make all of the decisions. In this chapter, you’ll see many examples of pools, both above- and in-ground, and the different types of materials used to build them – concrete, vinyl and fiberglass. There’s also information you’ll find useful regarding the various kinds of spas, swim spas and hot tubs that are on the market, and the installation considerations that pertain to them.
- As the name implies, an in-ground pool is sent into the ground. A hole is dug and is finished, usually with concrete, vinyl or fiberglass. Each material has its own benefits and uses; a variety of shapes is possible with an in-ground pool.
Concrete (RCC made swimming pools)
- When most people think of an in-ground pool, they think of a concrete one. 50% percent of the pools built each year are made of concrete. Those numbers come from a survey of the group’s members, and although they may be a little on the high side (not all pool companies are members), there is little doubt that concrete is an extremely popular material for pools.
Both gunite and shot Crete are cementations materials. Although gunite is the more widely used of the two materials, both are considered equal in length. It’s only the mixing process that differentiates gunite from shot Crete. When applying gunite, the installer uses a hose that mixes the material with water. Shot Crete is delivered to the site already wet; then it is mixed with air during application. For the sake of the clarity, here the term gunite will refer to both materials.
A gunite pool takes two to three months to build. But most contractors will stipulate 30 dry working days for the project.
Vinyl (Prefabricated Swimming Pools)
- When people talk about a vinyl in-ground pool they are referring to the liner material. Products vary from one pool manufacturer to another, but basically a vinyl pool consists of the liner and wall panels, which can be constructed of Fiberglass, galvanized steel, plastic. Each company has its own method for anchoring the walls. To support the liner on the floor of the pool, some contractors pour a thin concrete pad while others used a sand base.
- But the hard surface is always good instead of sand. The thickness of liner is also important.
- These pools are with very less weight. The time of construction is less.
- The pipe less filters is best for the liner pools as they need no puncher in pools. (Which are main place for leakage).
These pools are packaged systems. The manufacturer has probably honed and refined the design over the years. And if the installer has worked in the past with the product you select, there should not be any problem with the installation. For most vinyl in-ground pools, the installer does need to backfill the area behind the panels while the pool is filling with water so that the pressure on both sides of the panel remains equal. An experienced crew should be able to install a vinyl pool in about one week. Vinyl pools alsocoming in big number of shapes The number of liner patterns is endless; most companies offer dozens. You can find everything from solid colors to designs resembling ceramic tile or even round river rock. If you so desired, you could have your initials printed on the liner. The liners themselves are usually 0.5 to 3 millimeters thick and will last about 1 to 10 years.Vinyl pools used to be an inexpensive alternative to any kind of pools.
- A fiberglass pool arrives at your house in one monolithic shell-short of like a big tub on a flatbed truck. This is the complete pool shell, including cutouts for the drain, skimmer, and returns. While this does limit your choice of sizes and shapes, you will still find plenty fiberglass pools from which to choose .one manufacturer offers 40 different pools, including some that have deep sections for diving.
Actually, fiberglass is the reinforcing material used in this type of pool, the inside surface of the pool is a gel coat to which the fiberglass has been laminated . The Arrdevpools uses a lot of metallic or normal colors.A fiberglass pool costs about 10% percent more then a comparable RCCpool ,and shipping costs can drive the price up even more. In addition, it may not be available in some areas. But the typical ½- to 3/8-inch wall are slick and smooth and discourage algae growth, thereby cutting down on maintenance and saving on the use of the pool chemicals. Once the pool is on site, a crew can install it in about one week.
- Hybrid System. At least one manufacturer offers what it calls a unwell system. Here fiberglass panel walls are rolled into the excavation. The panels are only about 4 feet tall, however, so the lower walls of pools that are more than 4 feet deep are made with customized sizes of panels with conical design of pools.
- Arrdevpools have 2 ft to 6 ft size panels with us.
Swim Spas and Hot Tubs
- When compared with full-size swimming pools, spas and hot tubs seem to come in an endless variety of sizes and designs. For the sake of clarity, we will use the term “hot tub” to refer to the classic, aboveground round wooden tub that is outfitted with benches and may or may not have jets for stirring up the water. Here, “spas” will refer to any in ground or aboveground vessel that has built-in benches for seating and jets to agitate the water and relax and soothe tired muscles.
- The swimming for counter current system with Jacuzzi sets are called swim spa.
In-Ground Spas or swim spa
- Many in-ground spas are installed at the same time as an in-ground swimming pool. Pool dealers who sell concrete pools may even include a matching spa as part of the installation. In most cases, these spas are located within easy reach of the main pool, usually right next to it. Other options include acrylic, thermoplastic, stainless-steel, and fiberglass in-ground spas. Finishes range from the smooth coatings on acrylic spas to ceramic tiles on steel or fiberglass shells.
As with swimming pools, the spa’s circulation system is usually located away from the spa itself. That is one of the reasons in-ground spas are often part of a larger swimming-pool project. It is less expensive and easier on the nerves to dig up your yard only once to bury the necessary piping.
In-ground spas have a low profile look that many people prefer. But you are putting in a spa without a pool; consider an in-ground model carefully. These spas require excavation and trenching while aboveground models don’t, although there are some installation requirements. If the new spa is a part of the pool project, make sure that the circulation system can handle the requirements of both a pool and a spa. Often the pool and spa share a common filtration system and heater. Spas have different sanitation, water movement, and heat requirements than pools. A circulation system dedicated to the pool – and another one for the spa – will ensure the proper water quality for both.
- Also called portable spas, the typical model includes an acrylic, fiberglass, or thermoplastic shell and skirting to surround the shell. Between the tub itself and the exterior cladding are all the piping, filters, heaters, and controls.
Size. Portable spas range in size from models that can two people to those that can seat up to eight. A large model can easily measure 7 x 9 feet, but because it is only about 3 feet high, delivery people can turn the spa on its side to get it through most doorways and openings.
The larger the size of the spa, the more expensive it is. A bigger spa means more jets, more plumbing, and bigger heaters and filters to service a large amount of water. An empty 7- x 9- foot spa can weigh up to 500kg. Fill it, and it could easily weigh 4,500 pounds.
Jets. Premium spas might contain 12, 24, or over 48 jets, depending on the size of the shell. Better companies provide a number of different types of jets. They all mix air with water under pressure, but the size and type of the jet can create different effects. Some jets are specially designed and located for back muscles; others provide a vigorous foot massage, and so on. Look for adjustable jets where they will do you the most good. Sit in a spa to see how it feels before you buy it.
Finish. Acrylic shells are the most common. Look for a smooth even finish. Some of the new plastics are solid color all the way through the material.
Pumps and Filters. Buying a portable spa means that there is no worrying about sizing pumps and filters. Better spas have multiple pumps – one dedicated to the filtration system and one, sometimes two, dedicated to the jets. Portable spas usually have cartridge-type filters the size of which will vary with the size of the spa. With spa filters, bigger is better. Consider the area when comparing on model against another.
Insulation. Energy-efficient spas are built with foam insulation around the shell. Most of the cost of running a spa can be attributed to the spa’s heater, so insulation is an important consideration in many parts of the country. All spas should have covers.
Controls. Most controls are mounted right on the top of the shell. Those that are covered when the spa’s cover is in place
cannot be turned on accidentally. Top-of-the-line models have electronic programmable controls.
- As mentioned, the pumps, filters, and heaters for in-ground spas are located away from the spa itself, so a certain amount of excavation and trenching is necessary. Aboveground spas are self-contained, so excavation usually isn’t necessary, but there are other requirements.
A spa needs a flat, level surface that can support its weight, the weight of the water, and the people in the spa. This is probably too much for the average backyard deck to hold. Discuss with your dealer where you plan on placing the spa; he can recommend any necessary support construction. If you plan to locate the spa at ground level, many manufacturers recommend installing the spa on a 4-inch-thick reinforced-concrete pad.
Smaller models run on a 20-amp, 120-volt electrical service. In fact, you can plug them into an existing outlet protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). All modern spas are equipped with their own GFCI plugs. In many cases, a 20-amp circuit cannot provide power for the spa’s pumps and heater simultaneously. This usually is not a problem if the spa is small. However, large models need enough power to run the heater and the pumps at the same time. Bigger spas usually require 50 amp, 220-volt service and are hard wired – a job for an experienced electrician.
- Hot tubs captured the imagination of the country during the 1970s. The spa industry was nothing like it is today, so too many people the idea of sitting on a tub of hot water to relax was a very cool thing to do. Today, hot tubs are often casually lumped together with the types of spas discussed above, but they are not the same.
Buying a Spa or Hot Tub (See before buy)
- Try out a spa before you buy it. Many dealers have filled display models in their showrooms for you to do just that. Plan ahead of time, and wear a bathing suit under your clothes so that you can jump in and see how different models “fit”. At the very least, climb into an empty spa to see how it feels. Move around to the different areas. Premium spas have a number of different seating arrangements. Would you and the people who will usually be enjoying the spa be comfortable in the different seats? Are the jets placed where they will do you the most good? Consider the depth. Will everyone who uses the spa be able to keep his or her head above water when seated?
Check the warranties. Manufacturers usually provide separate warranties for the finish, cabinet and equipment. These vary, but 5 years on the finish and cabinet and 1 to 3 years on the pumps and filters is about standard. There are various types of warranties available, so it pays to shop around for the best one.
Perhaps more important than the warranty is the level of service you can expect from the dealer. A dealer with an established reputation who has experience selling, servicing, and repairing spas from a variety of manufacturers will most likely be a good source of information and help if something should go wrong once the spa or hot tub is installed.
Swim Spas-Fiber Made Pool-Swimmingpoolgym
- A swim spa is equipped to move water to produce a counter current against which you can swim. It allows you to literally swim in place. You can use a swim spa for aerobic exercise, jogging and hydrotherapy.
There are three ways to produce the current: a propeller system, jets or a paddle wheel. They all offer slightly different experiences, so shop around. But perhaps more important that how the pool produces the current is the degree to which you can adjust it. You’ll want a system you are comfortable with as a beginning swim spa user and as someone looking for a challenge as you grow in strength.
Models are available for in-ground or aboveground installation. The typical swim spa is 12 or30 feet long, about 6 to 12 feet wide and about 3 to 4.5 feet deep. Most models are made of fiberglass, or stainless steel with a vinyl liner. Their compact size means you can install a swim spa in a small yard or a room. Many models feature a separate section or seating at one end, so that you can convert the unit to a traditional spa if you like. As with portable spas, these products include the shell, pumps, filters, and heaters in one unit.
The Healing Powers of Water
- We all know that it feels good to sit in the warm waters of a bubbling spa, but did you ever wonder why? The typical spa is heated to about 25Degree Celsius, and according to the NSPI, water that warm not only relaxes muscles but also causes the blood vessels to dilate, lowering blood pressure. The buoyancy of water counteracts gravity, so sitting submerged to your shoulders can make your heart 10 to 20 percent more efficient.
Buoyancy also reduces the strain on muscles and joints. Add to that those hydro jets designed to massage your neck, back and feet, and you are in for one pleasurable and possibly therapeutic session.
But no everyone should use a spa. Pregnant women and people with heart disease or high or low blood pressure should consult their doctor before using a spa.
Pool and Spa Plumbing
- There are many reasons why more homeowners than ever are considering pools and spas, but perhaps none are more important than the almost universal use of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) piping. This plastic piping is less expensive and easier to work with than copper piping. But more importantly, a pool contractor does not need someone on his crew who knows how to solder fittings. Sections of piping can be joined together quickly and easily by applying special glue to the pipe ends. With just a little practice, almost anyone can learn to join two pieces of plastic pipe together.
For the homeowner, the advantage of using PVC piping lies in the fact that it does a better job than copper does in resting the caustic chemicals used in pools. PVC materials will last for years, and the type used in pools, Schedule 40, can be buried without damaging the pipe. In addition, if there is an emergency and you have to replace a section of pipe, you can do it with the materials you find at the local home center.
Working with PVC Piping
- Pool piping is generally 1 ½ or 2 inches in diameter. That is the inside diameter of the pipe, the part that actually carries the water. It is sold in straight lengths and a variety of fittings, such as 45- and 90- degree fittings for making turns and T-fittings for joining branch lines to main lines. There are couplings for joining straight runs together, and reducers for connecting pipes of unequal diameters to one another.
Most PVC is joined together by a chemical reaction created when you apply solvent cement to the pipe ends. When someone has to join two sections of pipe, the solvent cement melts the plastic just enough to fuse the two surfaces together. The joint winds up stronger than the pipe. Some fittings have threads for joining pipe. In this case, plumbers tape, not solvent cement,
is used to form a strong union.
Problems with PVC. Despite its many advantages, PVC piping does have some weak points. For one, sunlight can weaken it over time. Some manufacturers add inhibitors to the formula to help the pipe resist the Ultra Violet rays of the sun. Many simply suggest that you paint any exposed pipe to protect it from the sun.
PVC piping is not made to carry very hot water. Most of the water used in a pool or spa falls within the safety range of the piping, but there could be a problem in the areas where heated water first flows from the heater. In those cases, manufacturers specify installing a short length of cast-iron pipe directly at the heater. Within that length, enough excess heat will dissipate through the walls of the metal pipe so that it will be safe to use PVC to continue the pipe run.
Pool and Spa Equipment
- Pool Gear
- As you begin enjoying your new pool, you will come to realize that none of the fun would be possible
without the equipment and the components that run behind the scenes. The water in large aboveground
and in-ground pools – the ones covered in this book – must be cleaned and, in many cases, heated for your maximum enjoyment and safety. To accomplish this, a pump powers a circulation system and draws water from the pool, moves it through a filter, into a heater, and then back into the pool. The circulation system is the first of a two-part scheme for keeping your pool and spa water sparkling clean. The second part involves using chemicals and other methods to remove harmful bacteria and other impurities, a topic that is covered in pool maintenance .
- If you review the illustration, you will see that the pool’s filter is located downstream of the pump. The filter’s job is to remove dirt from the pool water. Actually, the cleaning process starts at the strainer basket that is attached to the pump. But the basket catches only large items such as leaves or branches. For the stuff that makes water cloudy, much of which you can’t even see with the naked eye, you need a pool filter.
It’s important to remember that a filter is only one-half of the cleaning system. No filter is fine enough to catch and remove bacteria from the water. For that you need to sanitize the water with chlorine or some other chemical.
There are three types of filters that are used in residential pools; cartridge filters, diatomaceous earth filters, and sand filters. They all do a good job of removing impurities from water.
- Cartridge filters have been around for some time, but they seem to be gaining to popularity in many parts
of the country. They consist of a tank that houses three or four cylindrical filtering elements. The filters are actually made of polyester or some other material that can provide a superfine filtering surface. The fabric catches and holds the impurities until you clean or replace the filter.
The cartridges can filter out anything down to about 25 microns in size. A grain of table salt is about 90 microns; anything below about 35 microns is invisible to the naked eye. It is important to remember that
with any filter, a small amount of dirt actually aids the filtering process. In other words, a filter becomes
more efficient the longer it operates. However, there is a point at which the filter is holding onto too much
dirt and must be replaced. (Chapter 7, “Pool Keeping – Routine Maintenance and Care,” for more information).
In most areas, cartridge filters are less expensive than diatomaceous earth filters but cost more than sand filters. However, cartridge filters are popular because of the minimal maintenance involved. Some families will find it sufficient to simply hose off the cartridges a few times during the swimming season to keep them working properly. Other may need to soak the filters in detergent or replace them. In any case, maintenance takes only a few minutes to keep the filtration system in top shape. Most portable spas contain cartridge filters.
- These filters use – you guessed it – sand as the filtering medium. Sand filters look like large balls and they can hold hundreds of pounds of pool-grade sand. Basically, water flows into the top of the filter housing and makes its way down through the sand bed where the sharp edges of the sand catch the dirt. On a micron-to-micron comparison, sand filters remove the least amount of dirt – particles as small as about 30 to 45 microns. But again, for a time, the dirt left behind contributes to the filtering process. Sand filters certainly are efficient enough to keep just about any pool clean.
To keep a sand filter working, you must clean it as often as once a week during swimming season. Maintenance means backwashing where the flow of clean water is reversed back into the filter. The problem with this, however, is that the backwashed water is simply wasted. A typical backwashing session can waste a few hundred gallons of water – water that must be replaced in the pool. Sand filters may not be a good idea in areas that are often under water restrictions.
- As with sizing a pump, you will need to know the capacity of the pool. (See “Calculating Pool Capacity”). You will also have to calculate the flow rate. This is a measurement of the amount of water that should flow through the filter. To find it, your or your pool dealer will need to determine how often all of the water in the pool should be circulated. This exercise is the same as the one explained in “Sizing the Pump”.
Let’s assume you want all of the water in the pool to be circulated through the filter system in eight hours,
an average circulation rate. Divide the pool’s capacity by 8 to find the flow rate in gallons per hour (capacity/turnover rate in hours = flow rate per hour). In a pool that holds 16,875 gallons of water, as in our example,
16,875/8 = 2,109 (approximately)
- Once you have the flow rate you need to keep the pool clean, you can look for a filter that meets those requirements. To determine a filter’s flow rate, multiply the square footage of filtering area by filter rate, which is the number of gallons that flow through 1 square foot of filter area per minute. This isn’t as
confusing as it sounds. Both numbers are available through the
filter manufacturer. They are listed on the product’s fact sheets and in some cases you can even find them
on the manufacturer’s Web site. So suppose you are looking for a sand filter. Manufacturer x offers one
model with 1.8 square feet of filter area (that is the actual filtering medium, not the size of the tank) with
a filter rate of 20 gallons per minute per square foot. So,
1.8 x 20 = 36
That is pretty close to our requirement of 35.15 gallons per minute flow rate. But unfortunately, even though Brand X meets the requirements, it is too close for comfort. Common wisdom in the industry calls for over sizing filters. Remember, once the filter begins catching impurities it actually does a better job of filtering out debris. But the debris also lowers the filter’s rate of flow.
To compensate for this, the filter should be a little larger than indicated by the calculations. How much larger? A lot of that will depend on the swim load and how often the pool is used. Your pool dealer will be able to help you.
You can either buy a filter with a faster filter rate or one with a larger filtering area. Say you went up to a filter with 2.5 sq. ft. of area.
2.5x20 50 gallons per minute
This is a better filter for the pool. You could also find one with a faster filter rate, but the faster water flows through the filtering medium, the fewer impurities it leaves behind. It is best to choose a filter with a larger filtering area.
When making your final selection, remember that filters will require maintenance. If you are considering a
DE or sand filter, you or your pool service will have to backwash it. Most newer filters are equipped with multipart valves that make backwashing as simple as turning a dial on the valve, about as close to
automatic as possible. You should also make sure that it is easy to open the tank to get at cartridge filters.
Pool Filters at a Glance
- Cost: Midrange
Remarks: Good for installing a large filter area in a tight spot. Cartridges require cleaning about three times per year. Cartridges should be replaced about every 2nd years. they do not vest or chlorine and less expensive in running of swimming pool
- Cost: mid expensive
Remarks: Good choice for a homeowner who plans on maintaining his or her own pool. Filters require backwashing (which wastes water) about once a day, but multipart valves make this an easy process that takes about 5 minutes. It vest chlorine and water Hans running an pool expensive
- Every pool needs a pump and a filter, but many pool owners add a heater to complete the system. The heater installed after the filter so that only clean water reaches it.
Some people think of pool heaters as unnecessary luxuries. But in cooler areas of the country, a heater lets you open the pool earlier in the spring and keep it open longer into the fall. In hot regions, a pool heater
may allow you to use your pool almost year round. Still not convinced? At least talk to your pool builder about preparing for a heater, installing the necessary piping and electrical work now while the rest of the pool is being built. That way if you decide you want to add a heater, you will minimize the installation costs.
- Either natural gas or propane is the most popular fuel used for the pool heaters. In the typical heater, water flows through one port, picks up heat from the heat exchanger in the heater, and exits another port on its way back to the pool. Most heaters mix the just-heated water with cool water to maintain a preset temperature.
If you’ve recently replaced the furnace in your home, you probably noticed that newer versions are much more efficient than older models. The same is true for pool heaters. Some models are rated at 90- to 95-percent efficient, compared with 10-year old heaters that may only be about 60-percent efficient. Heater efficiency is ratio of usable heat the unit produces to the energy it consumes to produce the heat. So a 90-percent-efficient unit gets 90 percent of the heat available from every unit of energy in this cage gas – it needs to run. To put another way, if you spend $90 worth of heat.
A 90-percent efficiency is pretty good. And with such a unit you will save a lot in heating bills.
Manufacturers can achieve those rates because they’ve improved the motors on the units and have made innovations in heat-exchanger technology and combustion systems. Also, pilot less ignition systems are more popular on newer models than they were in the past. Some areas of the country even require them. In a pilot less system, there is no standing pilot light, similar to an electronic ignition system on a newer cooking stove.
The alternative is a heater with a standing pilot light or mill volt system. In these systems, the heat from the pilot is converted to electricity that runs the controls on the heater. With a pilot less system, electricity must be hooked up to a transformer on the heater.
- Long used for heating and cooling homes, heat pumps are becoming increasingly more popular for pools. Heat pumps don’t produce heat like a gas heater; rather they take heat from one place and move it to another. The outside air heats a refrigerant within the heat pump that is further heated and compressed by
a compressor. This extremely hot gas goes to a heat exchanger, where it gives up its heat to the pool water. Then the cycle starts over again. The result is an energy-efficient appliance that actually produces more heat than the energy it consumes.
Heat pumps are rated by a coefficient of performance (COP). They can range from about 3 to 7, with the higher numbers being the most efficient. That means for every energy unit of electricity that the unit uses to work, it produces 3 to 7 times more heat energy for the pool.
Heat pumps can also run backwards. In homes during the summer, heat pumps act as air conditioners. In pools, you can actually use the heat pump to extract heat from the water. This is useful in vary hot climates where summer pool water may be too hot to refreshing.
Where you live should have determined whether you buy a heat pump for your pool. In warm areas, they work fine. But they may not be the best choice for pools in coolers climates. Because they use transfer heat that is in the air, they can take long time to warm a pool in the spring or fall. Usually there isn’t any problem during the hot days of summer, but cool weather in the swing seasons often means the heat pump must run longer than a conventional gas heater to raise the temperature of the pool water.
- There’s a good chance that you do not know anyone who uses solar energy to heat his or her home. But if you know a lot of peoples who have in-ground pools, some of them may use heat from the sun to heat their pools. Solar pool systems are popular because they are simple and, once they are up and running, they cost next to nothing to keep doing.
The basic pool solar system consists of collectors, piping and temperature sensors. Water flows from the filter to a valve that responds to the sensor measuring the collector’s water temperature. Another sensor measures the water temperature in the pool. When needed, the valve opens and sends the water to the solar collector.
The collector’s themselves are flat, black metal plates with tubes running through them. The metal absorbs heat from the sun and transfers it to the water running through the tubes. You can mount the collectors on the roof of your house or keep them on the ground as long as they can face south and are tilted for maximum exposure to the sun. Once heated, the water flows back to the pool. In most cases, the pump you use for your pool will be able to handle this load. Sometimes, through, an extra booster pump may be required.
It is possible to design a solar system that you supply all of the heat your pool will need. But these systems would net be practical in many parts of the country. You would need too much collector area to heat a pool adequately. To compensate many homeowners install a solar system along with a standard gas heater. They pray more up front, but they get at least part of their heat for free during the life of the system. And they are using an energy source that is renewable clean and free for the taking.
Electric Resistance and Oil Heaters
- These are two other types of pool heaters. Unlike heat pumps, which also use electricity, electric resistance heat is more direct. An electric current create heat that warms the water. These heaters are usually not a
first choice for pool owners because local utility rates make them expensive to run. They are usually specified if natural gas or propane are not available.
The same is true of oil-heated appliances. They use #2 fuel oil rather than gas to heat the water.
Sizing Heaters for Pools
- There are a number of variables in choosing the correct size heater for your pool. One of the most important is how you plan on using the pool. If you will use it frequently during the swimming season, you need a heater that provides maintenance heating, which means the water temperature remains relatively constant. If you will use the pool intermittently, it might make more sense to get a unit to provide spot heating. This is an important distinction because it affects how you calculate the size heater you will need. In very general terms, pool owners usually get maintenance heating for the pool and spot heating for the spa.
For pool heaters, you have to know the total pool surface area. (see Calculating Pool Capacity) Surface area is the determining factor because most heat loss will be through evaporation from the surface. In addition to knowing the surface area, you will also need to know
the temperature rise. To find it, first determine how warm you want the water. Most experts, including the American Red Cross, place ideal swimming temperatures in the 25- to 35- degree range. Next, find the average ambient temperature for the coldest month the pool will be open. Subtract the ambient temperature from the swimming temperature you want, and you have the temperature rise. From there you can just read across to find the required heater output in British thermal units (Btu) per hour. Most manufacturers print similar tables, except the company’s model numbers usually replace the Btu listings.
Tables like these are normally based on ideal conditions, usually a pool that is only subject to a 3-mile-per-hour wind. Higher wind means more heat loss and requires a larger heater. Also, if you are in a high elevation – 4,000 feet above sea level or more – you may need a special high-attitude heater. In fact, increase the heater size by 4 percent for every 1,000 feet of elevation.
Smart Tips for Pool & Spa
Tips on Testing
- Always use fresh reagents or test strips.
- Rinse testing materials with the water that you are about to test. Never use soap or trap water to
clean the equipment before testing, as they can leave a residue that will interfere with the test.
- Run the circulation system for about 15 or 20 minutes before testing.
- Do not take samples from the area around the return outlets or from dead zones in the pool.
- Take samples from water that is at least 18 inches below the surface.
- Handle all chemicals and dyes carefully. Never pour them into the pool.
- Store testing materials in dry, dark places. Direct sunlight can harm the testing agents.
If you do need to add chemicals, wait to see whether the chemicals have the desired effect. Wait about 15 minutes for liquid chlorine to circulate (with the pump running) and about 12 hours for the pH to adjust.
Most manufacturers print specific instructions for handling pool chemicals. In general, the goal is to get the chemicals circulating throughout the pool without getting any on yourself or areas around the pool. Again,
refer to Chapter 5 for the types of chemicals you will be using.
Granular Products. Whether they are sanitizers, acids, or alkaline materials, granular products should be added directly to the pool and never put into the skimmer for circulation. Most granular products are concentrated, so avoid direct contract. The best way to do this is to mix the required amount with water in a clean bucket used only for that purpose. Slowly pour the mixture at various locations around the pool. Be sure to hold the bucket close to the water so that none splashes on you. Pour around the return inlets (making sure that the circulation system is running). It is also a good idea to add some of the solution to any dead zones, which are areas where the water circulation isn’t active as it is in other areas. Possible dead zones include areas around steps, corners, and alcoves.
You can pour granular sanitizes directly into the water. The problem is that they often take time to dissolve,
so for a time they will be sitting on the bottom of the pool. This could lead to bleaching of some color surfaces.
Liquids. Pour liquid products directly into the pool. Again, hold the container as close as possible to the surface as the water to avoid splashing. Add sanitizers to a variety of spots around the pool, but avoid pouring directly into skimmers.
Tablets. Many homeowners find that 1- to 3- inch tablets are a convenient way to sanitize their pools. Placed in a floating dispenser, the tablets dissolve to add fresh chlorine to the water over a period of time. Be sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Some tablets are so concentrated that the larger versions are not recommended for smaller pools.
There is also a question of safety when using tablets placed in a floater. These are not toys, but they are sure to attract kids – especially a neighbor’s child who may not realize that the floater contains chlorine. If small children will be using the pool, it is best to avoid using floaters containing chlorine.
If you do use them, try to keep the floater from being drawn to the skimmer. As with other chemicals it is best not to add chlorine directly to the skimmer. Tie off a floater to keep it away from the skimmers.
If you attend to a maintenance routine that is daily or every few days, you will find that the larger tasks that should be performed weekly will go more quickly. If you contract with a pool-cleaning service, in addition to testing and correcting the water chemistry, the company should also perform other important tasks.
Vacuuming. There are two types of pool vacuums. One model attaches to the skimmer and works with the pool’s circulation system to remove dirt from the bottom of the pool. Anything collected by this vacuum is trapped by the pool’s filter. With the other type, water from a garden hose forces the dirt into a collection bag. You remove the bag and the dirt with it. (for more information, see “Automatic Pool Cleaners”, in chapter 4, “Enhancing the Experience – Accessories and Fun Stuff).
If you’re vacuuming to the filter, be sure that all of the suction in the circulation system is concentrated at the skimmer you are using. If you are recall the basic plumbing set up for a typical pool, you’ll remember that the circulation system pulls water through the man floor drain and the skimmer on the side of the pool. Usually the suction created by the pump is about equal for both. But if you are vacuuming, divert all of the pump’s pull to the skimmer. That may mean shutting down the main drain and opening up the skimmer valve completely.
Brushing.Use a special tile brush available at pool supply outlets to clean off the tile above the waterline. It may cot be necessary to do this every week, but plan on doing it at least every two weeks (obviously, more often if necessary). Cleaning of the tile helps remove dirt and, more importantly, algae before it can take hold.
Plan on scrubbing the tiles with the tile brush and tile soap (don’t use household detergent) about once a month during the swimming season. This is a good way to keep ahead of any algae buildup and it also helps remove scale. When you’re scrubbing, reach down to clean just below the waterline because evaporation will force the waterline lower.
Use the above procedure on vinyl and fiberglass pools. Check with the manufacturers but in most cases you can use the tile cleaner you buy at swimming pool supply houses. Never use abrasive cleaners, steel wool,
or metal scrapers on these surfaces. They can tear vinyl liners and damage the gel coat finish on fiberglass pools.
In addition, check on the equipment at least once a week. See “Equipment Maintenance”.
Shocking, or super chlorinating
As discussed in Chapter 5, it is necessary to shock the water by periodically adding massive amounts of chlorine. Shocking the water, or super chlorination, deals with the organic contaminants that build up in the pool over time. The contaminants combine with chlorine to form chloramines. It is the chloramines that produce the chlorine smell some people associate with pools. To get rid of the smell you must perform the seemingly contradictory task of adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine. You need to “shock” the water back to normal levels of good chlorine.
So how often is shocking necessary? Well, it depends on whom you ask. Most chemical manufacturers suggest a weekly shock treatment. That may be just the prescription for your pool, but in reality not all pools need a super chlorination treatment on a weekly basis. Pools need a shock treatment when there are large amounts of organic matter such as ammonia and nitrogen in the water. The more often a pool is used and
the heavier the swimmer loads, the more often shock treatments are necessary.
Follow manufacturer’s directions. Add chemicals to various spots around the pool. In most cases, you should keep swimmers out of the pool until the chlorine levels return to normal. Some products suggest adding shock treatments at night so that the pool water can stabilize overnight.
The actual vacuuming, no matter which type of equipment you use, is fairly straightforward. Slowly work your way around the pool, down the walls, and along the floor. Move at a slow, steady pace. If you move too quickly, the current created by the vacuum head will stir up any dirt on the bottom.
The future of swimming pool filters.
Conventional sand filters
Sand layers are formed into the filter with different layers. The surface area is less as the dia of filter decides the surface area not the height of filters
Need big filter and rooms to accommodate them.
Waste space and room.
Filtration technology is cartridge based and the cartridge is fixed length wise with V-shape wounding that gives surface area of 10 sqm.
In 200mm dia and 600mm height we can have 7 sq meter filter surface area which is equivalent to 4000mm dia sand filter.
Sand based Filtration can be efficient up to 40-60 microns
No uniformity in filtration.
Cartridge based filter is having the efficiency of 20 micron. Reputed company makes the cartridge filter. So there is a uniform gradation
That means water into pool will be clearer than sand filter. And uniformity in filtration.
There are five to seven valves to be operated in the filter unit.
Need operator and valve usually need maintenance
No valve or piping.
Easy operation and less maintenance.
AS per ISI standards the flow rate is 15cum/h/m2 max
Need bigger filters to follow ISI.
Comes under ISI standard for flow rates as low flow rate is required
Follow ISI standards with increasing size.
2. Power consumption:
Since the filter unit is far from the pool and there is one meter thick layer in sand filter the higher power and capacity pumps required.
More electricity required and more expense.
Cartridge thickness is 2-3mm and filter is near the swimming pool. so less power pumps required.
1 hp motor pump can work for similar size pool as 5hp pump required in sand filter.
So more savings.
3. Water Wastage:
There are three points, which waste the water daily.
Back wash of filter
Rinse the filter
Around 4% of water and chlorine are wasted daily just to wash the filter.
These filters are design to 0% wastage. Ten pools can be operated with the same quantity of water required in one no of pool with old technology. hence save water and reduce global warming.
Saves 100% water and chemical consumption goes down up to 70%.
in comparison of sand filters.
4. Need for balancing tank, filter room, skimmers or overflow grating plumbing pipes & valves, Nozzles, ladders, lights, chemical dozer etc.
Need structure just to take water to filter and space for filter.
Pipeless filters are small in size and near the pool. So no additional structures are required.
So saves space and cost that is 30% cost saving in comparison of sand filter based filtration system.
Infinity edge pool is possible with these filters.
5. Water Leakage:
We need to put plumbing pipes, electrical conduits into the pool that leads to puncher into RCC wall and floor & after some time plumbing pipe may be damaged due to ageing or the earthquake or any other reason and possibility of leak even your pool is water proofed properly.
In this system there are multiple chances of water leakage or seepage
There is no puncher into the walls and floor for any thing so there no need to take extra care for waterproofing.
No leakage is possible due to any mechanical or electrical items.
Filter is mounted and no puncher in pool is required. So there is no chance of water leakage today or any time in future.
No concealed parts.
6. In sand based filter the following consultants are required during the process of construction:
So the warrantee and guarantee expired till the time of actual usage of swimming pool.
Pipe less filters remove the need of any consultant as no provisions out let inlet or any structures needed.
They can be installed within two days before actual usage of swimming pools.
Any design is possible with sand filters.
Some models are concealed and the designs are such that it looks like ladder and light into pool.
Any design is possible.